Succulent Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and a World More: Indian City Secures a Place on Unesco Culinary List.
Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.